Guide to Dogo Onsen: How to get there and what to see

Dogo Onsen, located in Matsuyama on Shikoku Island, is one of Japan's oldest and most famous hot springs, boasting a history of over 3,000 years. Renowned for its healing waters and classic architecture, the locale is highlighted by Dogo Onsen Honkan, a public bathhouse said to have inspired the bathhouse in Studio Ghibli's “Spirited Away”.

Visitors can enjoy traditional bathing experiences, explore the charming surrounding area with its historical sites and shopping streets, and indulge in the local culture and hospitality.

Dogo Onsen has a rich history steeped in legend and cultural significance. One such tale dates back to ancient times, where it is said that an egret with an injured leg discovered a natural hot spring flowing from the rocks. By regularly soaking its leg in the healing waters, the egret miraculously healed, inspiring locals to also bathe in the spring. This marked the beginning of a popular tradition where people sought the restorative powers of Dogo Onsen's waters, believing it could relieve fatigue and aid in recovery from illness.

Over the centuries, Dogo Onsen became not just a place of healing but also a cultural icon. Legends tell of divine intervention, such as when the deity Sukunahikona-no-Mikoto was healed by the spring's waters. A stone where he danced to prove his recovery is now enshrined nearby.

During the Edo period, Dogo Onsen expanded under Matsudaira Sadayuki's rule, offering separate baths for different classes and purposes, including therapeutic treatments. In the Meiji era, Isaniwa Yukiya spearheaded renovations of Dogo Onsen Honkan, ensuring its legacy would endure. Today, Dogo Onsen remains a cherished destination, blending natural tranquility with centuries of cultural heritage.

The alkaline hot spring water at Dogo Onsen is renowned for its gentle effects on the skin, making it perfect for spa and beauty treatments. It emerges naturally from 18 sources at temperatures ranging from 20 to 55°C (68–130°F). The hot spring waters are carefully blended to achieve a soothing temperature of around 42°C (107.6°F), maintaining its natural qualities without reheating or dilution. Dogo Onsen stands out among Japan's hot springs for offering water directly from the source, ensuring an authentic and unaltered bathing experience.

Dogo Onsen Honkan is conveniently located just a four-minute walk from Dogo Onsen Station. Visitors can easily access it from JR Matsuyama Station or Matsuyama-shi Station in about 25 minutes. From Matsuyama Airport, it will usually take less than an hour with the bus or taxi.

Dogo Onsen Honkan offers several ticket options catering to different preferences for its two baths and various relaxation areas. Kami no Yu is the larger bath, while Tama no Yu is smaller, offering a more serene and exclusive experience.

Level 1: Priced at 700 JPY, available from 6:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. (last entry at 10:30 p.m.). Includes access to the Kami no Yu bath with a maximum stay of 60 minutes.

Level 2: Costs 1,300 JPY, available from 6:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. (last entry at 9:00 p.m.). Additionally includes access to a public tatami room on the second floor for relaxation, also for up to 60 minutes.

Level 3: Priced at 2,000 JPY, available from 6:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. (last entry at 9:00 p.m.). Provides access to both the Tama no Yu bath and a different public tatami room on the second floor for relaxation, with a maximum stay up to 60 minutes.

Level 4: Costs 2,500 JPY, available from 6:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. (last entry at 8:30 p.m.). Includes access to a private tatami room on the third floor for relaxation, allowing for a maximum stay of 90 minutes.

Additionally, there are two larger private tatami rooms available for higher fees, requiring advance reservations.

For those interested in the Emperor's bathing facilities, guided tours are available at 500 JPY per person from 9:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., with tours starting every 30 minutes.

Here are some great places to explore during your trip to Dogo Onsen.

Asuka-no-yu and Tsubaki-no-yu: Both of these facilities are located just a minute or two from Dogo Onsen Honkan. Constructed in the style of the Asuka period, Asuka-no-yu is a more modern bathhouse opened in 2017. Tsubaki-no-yu was constructed in 1953 and is a favorite for the locals. It was renovated in 1984 and fully refurbished in 2017.

Botchan Karakuri Clock: Located right near Dogo Onsen Station, this clock is inspired by “Botchan”, a novel written by Natsume Soseki, one of the most famous writers in Japan. Every hour from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., this mechanical clock entertains visitors with appearances of characters from Botchan.

Dogo Haikara Dori Street (Dogo Shopping Street): A 250-meter L-shaped shopping street that connects Dogo Onsen Honkan and Dogo Onsen Station. Various shops are lined up including cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops. It has a nostalgic Meiji-era vibe, making it a popular spot for tourists to go exploring after a dip in the baths.

Enman-ji Temple: Established in 812, there’s a white jizo statue said to have been made during the Nara period, and when the Dogo Onsen springs stopped flowing in 1855 due to an earthquake, it is believed that prayers to this statue made the hot spring flow again. In recent years, it is also known for its colorful and photogenic omusubi-dama matchmaking charms.

Dogo Park: Located less than 10 minutes on foot from Dogo Onsen Honkan, it’s a great spot for a leisurely stroll, featuring seasonal flowers and historical ruins. It’s also known its beautiful cherry blossoms in the spring.

Matsuyama Castle: About a 10-minute drive or a 30-minute walk from Dogo Onsen Honkan is Matsuyama Castle. Visitors can not only look at its impressive structure and historical exhibits, but also enjoy the panoramic views it offers of the city and the Seto Inland Sea.