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A Guide to Ginzan Onsen

Ginzan Onsen is an area of Obanazawa, Yamagata, nestled in the mountainous Tohoku region of Japan. A well-known hot spring destination with picturesque views that call to mind the animated worlds of Studio Ghibli, this resort offers old-world charms and a different pace of life, making it an excellent addition to your Japan travel itinerary.

 

1. An historic hot spring resort brimming with culture

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The name Ginzan literally means “silver mountain” and refers to the mining industry that flourished here in the premodern era. The hot spring resort was initially established in the early Edo period (1603–1867). In 1913, following a disastrous flood, many of the businesses here were destroyed and rebuilt, and to this day, the area preserves the culture and style of the Taisho era (1912–1926). The streetscape retains an architectural ambiance of yesteryear, with elegant facades looking out over the Ginzan River that flows through the heart of town. Cobblestone paths and gas lamps further enhance the atmospheric splendor.

Obanazawa, where the resort is located, is in a mountain valley in northeast Yamagata. Ginzan Onsen is well known among domestic travelers, not just because of its visual connection to the worlds of Hayao Miyazaki, but also for having served as a filming location for the beloved 1980s TV drama, Oshin.

A beautiful place to visit at any time of year, Ginzan Onsen is especially popular in wintertime, when snowfall lends an ethereal charm to the whole area. Accommodations may be booked up months in advance for certain holidays, and some inns have very limited numbers of rooms, so be sure to plan early.

 

2. How to get to Ginzan Onsen

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Travel by train and bus is required to reach Ginzan Onsen. Oishida Station is the closest train station and can be reached via the Shinkansen from Tokyo and other major metropolitan hubs. The high-speed train journey takes around three and a half hours from Tokyo. A bus from Oishida Station to Ginzan Onsen takes 40 minutes.

You can also take highway buses to travel to the Tohoku region from other parts of Japan and then transfer to local buses. However, do note that this will be a much longer journey. For example, a bus from Tokyo to Sendai in Miyagi may take up to six hours; the journey to Obanazawa from Sendai takes additional time on top of that.

 

3. Food, nature, and relaxation around Ginzan Onsen

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The Ginzan Onsen resort area is compact and easily navigable on foot. Hot springs are the main draw; the ryokans in this area provide ample hot spring access to their guests, with some open to daytime visitors as well. Other public baths are also available, like Shirogane-yu, which can be found in a building designed by the world-famous Japanese architect, Kengo Kuma. Note that some of these require advance reservations. People with tattoos are generally not allowed to use public baths. Please pay careful attention to the signage and don’t hesitate to ask management if you have any concerns.

Besides hot springs, there are plenty of restaurants, cafes, and shops in Ginzan Onsen where you can spend a leisurely day. These cozy spaces are a perfect respite from the wintry bluster when the streets are filled with snow. Most food here is standard Japanese fare, staples such as soba noodles, or desserts made with sweet red beans. There are also local specialties, like the fried tofu served by Nogawa Tofuya or kare-pan (fried bread snack with a savory curry filling) made with local ingredients.

Ceramics, sweets, and other kinds of souvenirs can be found throughout town. You can take home a wooden kokeshi doll, a beautiful pottery selection, or prepackaged snacks and Japanese alcohol to commemorate your visit.

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If you’re yearning to get out into nature, the beautiful scenery of Shirogane Park can be found within easy walking distance at the southern end of the resort area. A waterfall splashes down from a height of 72 feet, and an illuminated cave offers mysterious views within.

 

4. Japanese-style retro overnight accommodations

For a resort of this size, there is a wide selection of Japanese-style inns that each offer a distinctive overnight experience. Below are just a few options for your consideration.

Ginzan Onsen Notoya Ryokan

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With only 15 rooms, Ginzan Onsen Notoya Ryokan nonetheless has multiple baths you can enjoy and serves delicious, balanced meals made with locally produced ingredients including Obanazawa beef and duck. The stately wooden frame of this building dates back to the 1920s and is registered as a national cultural property.

The guestrooms include tatami-mat flooring and elegant Japanese furniture and lighting so that you can have an authentic stay experience in Ginzan Onsen. Views of the Ou Mountains and surrounding nature bring a sense of calm, whether you’re soaking in the hot springs or relaxing in the privacy of your room.

Ginzanso

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The gorgeous rooms available at Ginzanso include standard spaces in traditional Japanese style and deluxe accommodations that have their own private bath. Both types of rooms have photogenic views of the mountains and river, and the property also features paper lanterns by the famous artist, Kenji Uchino.

Wagyu beef from Yamagata is the highlight of Ginzanso’s culinary offerings, accompanied by seasonal dishes and local wine and sake. The indoor and outdoor baths provide a luxurious experience unto themselves, whether you’re admiring spring's greenery or winter's snow-dusted landscapes.