A Guide to Kinosaki Onsen

Onsen — or hot springs — are a staple of Japan's landscape. These public baths are a great way to relax and are often considered to have healing properties, which is why they should be at the top of your to-do list when traveling to Japan. Unfortunately, it can be tricky if you've got tattoos.

While the tourism industry has pushed for establishments to be more open to tattoos, there are still hot springs that will restrict you from entering if you have any. Tattoo cover-up patches have become more common as of late, but for those who want complete peace of mind, Kinosaki Onsen is your tattoo-friendly hot spring paradise.

Just two to three hours from Osaka or Kyoto by train, Kinosaki Onsen provides access to traditional Japanese culture and delicious regional cuisine all throughout the four seasons. So put on your yukata, and we'll take you through a few ways to enjoy the town, whether you're here to take a dip in the baths or just looking for a relaxing getaway.

No matter how long you’re in Kinosaki Onsen, the public hot springs can be enjoyed by all. For those staying overnight, many ryokans offer passes with access to the public baths. If you’re coming on a day trip, though, you can buy a one-day pass for 1,500 JPY from the visitor center or at one of the seven public baths. 

All of the hot springs are within walking distance of each other. We recommend the soto-yu meguri, a fortune-amplifying tour that involves visiting all seven bathhouses. The seven baths go by the names of Satono-yu, Jizo-yu, Yanagi-yu, Ichino-yu, Goshono-yu, Mandara-yu, and Kono-yu. Each bathhouse has unique features; let’s break them down here.

Satono-yu: Visually different from the other bathhouses, this one features both a Turkish bath and a Japanese-style bath (use of each bath is rotated daily between men and women). It offers a beautiful panoramic view of the Maruyama River and an herbal steam sauna as well. For those that don’t have time to enter, a foot bath is located nearby. This bathhouse is the newest out of the seven and closest to the main station..

Jizo-yu: This bathhouse is modeled after the shape of a Japanese lantern and matches well with the Japanese lanterns that line the river. Jizo-yu is quite popular with local families and has a children’s bath. Do take note that there is no outdoor bath. The hexagonal windows in the bathhouse were made to resemble volcanic rocks found at the nearby Genbudo Cave.

Yanagi-yu: The smallest out of all the baths, this one is named after the weeping willows just outside. Yanagi-yu is said to be the most traditional of the bathhouses, and according to local lore, bathing here was a way to ensure safe childbirth and increase fertility. A small foot bath is just outside for those who don’t have the time to go in.

Ichino-yu: Modeled after Japanese kabuki theaters, Ichino-yu is one of the more popular baths out of the seven. The bathhouse is said to have gained popularity after a doctor visited and lauded the bathwater’s healing properties. A unique feature of Ichino-yu is its cave bath, which is comprised of natural boulders and exudes soft, ambient lighting.

Goshono-yu: Said to have one of the most “nature-like” ambiences, Goshono-yu features a natural mountainside waterfall and lush trees surrounding the baths. Bathing here is said to bring luck in love and protection against fires. After bathing, spend some time admiring the foyer and lounge area, which are decorated with beautifully painted screens. The building was made to resemble the Kyoto Imperial Palace.

Mandara-yu: Legend has it that priest Dochi Shonin’s 1,000 days of prayer had brought upon the waters of this hot spring, and the bathhouse became well known for its healing properties. It features two ceramic baths located outdoors, providing bathers with a refreshing view of the mountains. 

Kono-yu: A 20-minute walk away from the main station, Kono-yu is less crowded for those who want a quieter experience. It is said that the spring was discovered when an injured oriental white stork was spotted healing its wounds in the waters. Bathing here is said to bring happiness in marriage and longevity. 

Before going, make sure to check the off-days of each bath, as many of them are often closed on Wednesdays and Thursdays. You can also check how crowded they are by looking at the status tracker featured here.

Surrounded by mountains and just a cable car ride away from a panoramic view of the Japan Sea, Kinosaki Onsen is a great place to go if you’re seeking nature. The main mountain in the area is Mount Daishi, which has a regular ropeway running throughout the seasons.

Halfway up the mountain, visitors can also drop by Onsen-ji Temple, a significant landmark in the area. Before bathing in the healing waters of Kinosaki Onsen, travelers were known to first come to this temple. Here, visitors would pray in the main hall and receive a hot spring ladle which would grant them access to the public baths. The ladle is no longer needed to enter the baths, but it would make a good souvenir of your trip. 

At the top of Mount Daishi, you’ll be able to take in the beautiful views of the town all the way to the Japan Sea. If you’re feeling hungry, there's the Miharashi Terrace Cafe which has both indoor and outdoor seating. Otherwise, for those who're feeling a bit more adventurous, you can hike to the summit of Mount Kuruhi.

Kinosaki Onsen is famous for Matsuba crab (snow crab) which is in season from late November to early March. Most ryokans will have the option of snow crab on their winter seasonal dining menu, which makes the local delicacy easier to find. 

If you’re traveling outside of snow crab season, don’t fear; there are also seafood markets where equally delicious seafood can be had as well. The Okesho Fish Market has been around since the 1920s, and customers can select fresh seafood to eat at the restaurant on the upper floor. 

Aside from seafood, Tajima beef is another local specialty. Tajima beef is a type of kuroge-wagyu or Japanese black cattle that is raised only in the northern region of Hyogo. The beef melts in your mouth and is certainly not to be missed if you see it on menus. 

No matter the time of year, there always seems to be something festive happening in Kinosaki Onsen.

In winter, the town has been known to get snow, which pairs well with the snow crab dining opportunities. One of the more exciting winter events that happens at the start of the crab season is the Crab Kingdom Shouting Contest. During this contest, the participant who shouts “Kani-san, arigato!” (Thank you, crab!) the loudest is given a local snow crab as a prize.

In spring, brilliant cherry blossoms bloom about, and you can go for a pleasant stroll along the river while taking in the beauty of the trees. The Onsen Festival also takes place toward the end of April. This festival is one of Kinosaki Onsen’s most important events, as it commemorates the work of Dochi Shonin, who is seen as the founder of Kinosaki Onsen. Priests from Onsen-ji Temple descend to the city during this festival and pray for the town’s prosperity while visiting each of the seven public baths.

In summer, around Obon (an annual period to commemorate one’s ancestors), Kinosaki Onsen holds their lantern festival. During the festival, the town follows the tradition of Toro Nagashi and releases hundreds of colorful lanterns down the Otani River. There are also regular fireworks shows held during the summer months.

Lastly, in autumn, the changing of the leaves can be seen at surrounding temples in the Kinosaki Onsen area. The major event during autumn is Danjiri Festival (the fighting shrine festival), which is also held in other parts of Japan. For Kinosaki Onsen, the festival is held in worship of the deity at Shisho-jinja Shrine, who is believed to watch over the hot springs of Kinosaki.

To complete your experience at Kinosaki Onsen, staying at one of the many ryokans in town is a great way to relax and recharge. It’s important to keep in mind, however, that not every ryokan permits guests with tattoos to use their baths, so do check in advance. Below, we provide a range of options to stay at during your visit to Kinosaki. 

One of the most iconic ryokans in Kinosaki, Nishimuraya Honkan has been run by the same family for seven generations for a span of over 160 years. The ryokan was designed to look like a traditional Japanese tea house, and the garden at the center of the building creates a very serene and peaceful ambience. Many of the Japanese-styled rooms here have a private open-air bath, and there are also three public baths available for guests. Take in the unique architecture of each bath: Kichino-yu, set in a grove of bamboo; Fukuno-yu, designed in traditional Chinese style; and Shouno-yu, which looks out into the enchanting courtyard garden.

With only 32 rooms available — and being quite popular with Japanese travelers — Nishimuraya Honkan gets booked out quickly. It’s located close to the Kinosaki Ropeway, with the two public baths Kono-yu and Goshono-yu nearby. 

Part of the Nishimuraya accommodation family, Nishimuraya Hotel Shogetsutei is the sister ryokan to Nishimuraya Honkan. A unique point to note is that with “hotel” in its name, it provides all of the facilities of a modern hotel. A quick five-minute shuttle bus from the station brings you to the gorgeous building. 

Like Nishimuraya Honkan, Shogetsutei also has rooms with open-air baths. Unlike Honkan, however, Shogetsutei also offers western-styled rooms. There is also a hot tub, sauna, and indoor and outdoor baths. For those who are vegan or vegetarian, a special food menu can be requested in advance. While both Honkan and Shogetsutei have wonderful services, Shogetsutei is the more affordable of the two.

Not too far from Honkan, Shogetsutei is also near the Kinosaki Ropeway, and Kono-yu is the closest public bath nearby. 

*Note: Shogetsutei is currently under construction from August 21, 2023, to October 31, 2023. 

Tsubakino Ryokan is becoming a local favorite as it has both western and Japanese-styled rooms. On top of this, the ryokan is also known as the “Gallery Ryokan” because it’s packed with plenty of art installations in the main building and annex. 

There are two private baths that can be reserved at Tsubakino Ryokan, though one stands out as being more unique. Sarasa-no-yu, the first bath of its kind in Kinosaki, produces micro-sized bubbles that give the bathwater a pearly white color. The bubbles are said to leave guests with an extra clean feeling, so reserving this bath is a must for those in need of some pampering.

For those wanting a quieter ryokan experience, Onishiya Suishoen is a great choice. Located north of Kinosaki Onsen Station, the ryokan is situated away from the main hustle and bustle but still only a 10-minute walk from the public bath Jizo-yu. 

It offers just 28 Japanese-styled rooms, so make sure to book early during the busier seasons. The lobby provides a quaint space where guests can lounge and sample complimentary tea. There is also a small exhibition area featuring pictures of white storks. These storks are said to bring happiness and are often seen as the symbol of Kinosaki Onsen.

Both baths for men and women also feature an open-air bath. A sauna is also available for guests to use.

The three-story Japanese wooden structure of Tsuchiya Ryokan provides a very traditional atmosphere for the establishment. The ryokan is great for any size of party, with villas available for groups of eight or more. Tsuchiya Ryokan is a great choice for those looking to access the public baths, two of which are within walking distance. It’s also close to the Kinosaki Ropeway, making it easy to pop by Onsen-ji Temple and say a prayer before entering the baths.

For those wanting a more private experience, two private baths can also be accessed at the ryokan. There is no reservation system for these baths; they're available on a first-come, first-served basis.