A Guide to the Kumano Kodo

Stretching across the Kii Peninsula in Wakayama, Nara, and Mie prefectures, the Kumano Kodo is a network of ancient pilgrimage trails whose history dates back over 1,000 years. Along with the Camino de Santiago in Spain, the Kumano Kodo is the only other pilgrimage route to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage site (which it was designated in 2004).

While these days it's a walk many take as a recreational activity and a way to see some of the nation's more spectacular and sacred sites, it initially came into being as a religious practice. Monks and followers of Buddhism and Shintoism (the Japanese school of spirituality that worships nature) undertook the pilgrimage route as a passage of religious rites, a symbol of worship and purification.

The routes, which spread out along the lush Kii Peninsula, were developed for pilgrims moving between the region's sacred areas. The three Kumano shrines are at the heart of the trails: Hongu Taisha, Hayatama Taisha, and Nachi Taisha, known collectively as Kumano Sanzan.

In terms of religious significance, the route is a fascinating study of the harmony of syncretic religion, which is the combination of religious beliefs. Followers of the Kumano faith believe the area carries significant elements of Shinto, Shugendo, mountain worship, and Buddhism, and the region is sacred to all and any followers of these religions. Many also believe that both Shinto and Buddhist deities are embodied in the natural wonders of the region.

You could say that the nation's royals were the pilgrimage trailblazers. In the 11th and 12th centuries, retired emperors of the Insei period began to make repeated pilgrimages to Kumano. By the Muromachi period (1333-1573), the pilgrimages became popular among samurai and everyday folks that the trails were so well-trafficked they were even called a "pilgrimage of ants".

Today hundreds of thousands of people take the pilgrimage trails annually. Beyond being naturally stunning and religiously fascinating, the trail is well-marked and easy to navigate for a wide range of hikers adding to its popularity.

There are five main pilgrimage trails to explore, each with its own unique charms and appeals. Some you can combine with a visit to Mt. Koya, and others are worthy options for those who want a little "taste" of the region without committing to a week-long hike.

The Nakahechi trail is well-marked and one of the more accessible hiking route options. If you want to complete the route, the journey from Takijiri-oji to Kumano Nachi Taisha via Hongu will take about four to five days of walking. Along the way, you'll experience a little elevation, with some hilly sections, and passes through a handful of quaint villages; after traversing through village Chikatsuya Oji (where you'll find a few minshuku (guest houses), the final descent of this trail ends with a visit to Hongu Taisha, which with its spectacular views of the shrine's massive torii gate is a perfect way to finish.

The Ohechi trail runs along the southwest coast, offering stunning coastal views and mountainous terrain to conquer. If you want to do the whole trail, it takes about three days, but sections of the route can also be done as day hikes. Due to development and the construction of modern roads, this trail is a little less developed than some of the others. Parts of the route also require walkers to share the road with highways. In total, three passes make up the entire route, Tonda-zaka, Hotoke-zaka, and Nagai-zaka, and you'll pass through the towns of Tanabe, Shirahama, and Susami which are excellent little seaside nooks to explore, and maybe even stay a while!

The Iseji trail as its name alludes, connects Kumano with Ise Shrine in Mie Prefecture, running along the peninsula's east coast. It's one of the less-trafficked trails, perfect for those who want to escape the buzz of travelers and sit in the region's tranquility. Due to road development, parts of the trail have been lost, but there are still some beautiful pockets. The Magose Pass in Owase City and Matsumoto Pass in Kumano City are some of the most picturesque. One of the positives of the development is that there are plenty of hotels and convenience stores along the way, making the trek a little easier.

The Kohechi trail is one of the most challenging routes and is best reserved for more confident hikers. Originally this rugged path was used mainly by Buddhist monks from the temple complex of Mount Koya. This trail connects the Kumano Kodo to one of the nation's other most significant spiritual destinations, Mt. Koya (aka Koyasan), and takes about four days to complete. It's a tough mountaintop route with far less development and few accommodations. If you're planning to undertake this journey, be prepared to go off track and ver into valley towns to find somewhere to stay.

The Omine Okugake trail is another challenging route. It was once used primarily by followers of the Shugendo mountain worship sect. This one connects Kumano with Yoshino via Mount Omine. Like Kohechi, it can be dangerous as it traverses high mountain ridges, and there aren't a lot of stop-off points along the way. At about 100 kilometers in total, it'll take five days to complete. If you want to see what it's like but don't want to commit to the entire route, one tip is to explore the route through the Yoshino mountains and then hike down to Dorogawa Onsen.

While hiking, where you stay really depends on what route you take, how far you want to go, and what's available. That said, we wanted to suggest some accommodations options worth exploring when you're done with the trail and want to spend a little more time treating yourself and soaking up the ambiance of this stunning pocket of the Kii Peninsula.

For the budget-conscious, Tuna & Local Sake Guesthouse Wakatake is a great choice. This cozy guesthouse offers easy access to JR Kii-Katsuura Station, as well as city centrality and laid-back coastal energy. The rooms are no frills, tatami mat style with futon bedding. It's a great place to make new connections and share tales of the trail.

A more luxurious option is to treat yourself to a little rest and relaxation in classic Japanese style with a stay at Katsuura Onsen Katsuura Gyoen. This Japanese-style resort inn serves delicious kaiseki meals, offering hot spring bathing facilities and Japanese and Western-style bedding. It's a luxury you deserve after tackling the Kumano Kodo.

From Tokyo, the Kumano Kodo is a minimum six-hour journey (via train), so our tip is if you're basing yourself in the country's main cities, plan the trip from Osaka, as it's about a two-hour train ride from Tennoji Station.

Take the JR limited express to the Kii Peninsula; this express train stops at Kii-Tanabe, where you'll find a helpful visitor center. From the visitor center, you can best plan where to begin. Also, it's worth noting if you're traveling with your luggage, the area offers luggage shuttle services.