A Beginner's Guide to Onsen Culture

In Japan, public bathing is practically a national pastime. The country is dotted with hot springs and hot spring resorts, and many locals curate their entire holidays around getting to these much-loved mineral-rich baths. So what exactly are they? And what do you do when you get there?

Onsen is a term that you use in Japanese for both an object and a location, the latter, though, is in reference to the object, but it's probably good to know to explain further. Let us break it down.

Onsen means "natural hot spring" in Japanese. Being a highly volcanic country, they're a common natural phenomenon here in Japan. Every region of the country has its own unique onsen culture and destinations. You can get traditional onsen, modern ones, multi-bath facilities, and single-bath ones. Basically, what makes an onsen an "onsen" is its water source.

Depending on the onsen's water source, many of the hot springs in Japan have different water mineral levels and different qualities, which are said to have a relaxing effect on your body and mind.

Onsen towns, towns rich with hot spring water sources,  are also referred to by adding the "onsen" tag to the end of the location's name. For example, Mt. Zao in Yamagata is home to Zao Onsen, Ginzan Onsen in Yamagata, Arima Onsen in Hyogo, and Dogo Onsen in Ehime, just to list a few.

In Japan, public bathing is popular and while not everyone has access to a volcano-powered onsen bath, there are also plenty of other public baths available known as sento.

What makes the sento different from the onsen is what goes into the water and where it comes from. Sento water is basically heated water, a big bath potentially with minerals added later.

To be classified as an "onsen" the water has to be natural volcanic spring water. Some other rules that an onsen has to adhere to to be given the title of onsen are the water must be at least 25°C at the source, and it must meet one of 19 potential criteria related to its mineral content levels. Essentially though, the rules around visiting an onsen and a sento are the same.

The legacy of the onsen seems as old as the legacy of Japan itself. One of the nation's oldest books, the Nihon Shoki, published in 720 and also known as The Chronicles of Japan, mentioned Arima, Shirahama, and Dogo Onsen in its pages.

If you want to find the origin of the onsen, many believe it's Dogo in Ehime Prefecture. Some evidence suggests that this onsen was used over 3,000 years ago. According to the Dogo Onsen legacy, its soothing waters were utilized by one of the area's main deities in ancient times.

You can still visit Dogo Onsen today; however, the current incarnation of the bathhouse was built in 1894. Today it's also designated an important cultural asset of Japan.

While the Ghibli crew never make clear the exact locations from which they draw inspiration, it's pretty generally accepted that Dogo Onsen is also the inspiration behind Studio Ghibli's iconic 2001 animated masterpiece "Spirited Away".

As well as being immortalized in the film, this onsen was also featured in one of the country's most famous novels, Botchan by literary legend Natsume Soseki (1867–1916).

The city Matsuyama, home to Dogo Onsen, is so proud of the reference they've erected a mechanical clock that transforms on the hour, retelling scenes from the iconic novel.

Ask avid onsen lovers about the best time of year to visit the onsen; they'll probably tell you all "year around". But for first-timers, winter is when you'll appreciate it most.

During the crisp cold winters in Japan, visiting an onsen is the perfect way to soothe dry wind-chapped skin and warm up your body all the way down to the core. Some onsen baths also claim that their mineral content helps keep your body warm long after you've gotten out of the bath.

If you have the chance to visit a Japanese onsen in winter, nothing quite beats the transcendent experience of soaking outdoors, surrounded by snow. Some snowy onsens worth visiting include Shirahone Onsen and Shibu Onsen, which are both conveniently located in Nagano prefecture.

Make sure you're in the correct gender bath. If you've made a mistake here, chances are you'll be able to figure that out pretty fast!

Many onsen use Japanese characters to identify which bath is for which gender. If you can, just follow the signs saying "男" for men and "女" for women.

No swimsuits, you have to be nude. There may be exceptions to this rule for one-off mixed baths or amusement park-style onsen facilities (yeah they exist), but generally, it's nude or nothing. If you're shy, try and rent private baths available for booking (known as "kashikiri"), or go super early in the morning.

The onsen is for relaxing, it's not for washing, so you have to clean yourself before entering the bath. The facilities have small showers and stalls available to use just before you hop in.

Be respectful and relaxed: No splashing, running around, spitting water, or dipping stuff in the bath. Basically, just don't be silly. Chatting is fine, just remember this is a place for a little rest and relaxation, so treat it as such.

Typically they're a no-go. Originally in Japan, tattoos were associated with organized crime (yakuza) so to prevent conflicts, onsen owners would ban them, lest one mob member spot an enemy member. Times are changing, however, and more businesses are allowing tattooed foreign tourists. Sometimes you might just be asked to cover it up with a bandage or sticker. To save a little embarrassment, it's worth doing a quick search for your closest tattoo-friendly onsen. Or book a private one!

Kurokawa Onsen, Aso

This onsen town in Kyushu has nearly 30 onsen baths that guests can hop between. Grab a wooden "tegata" pass (¥1,300) and get access to three different baths of your choice.

Ginzan Onsen, Yamagata

With traditional buildings illuminated by flickering gas lamps lining the water, Ginzan in northern Yamagata is one of the country's most photogenic onsen. You've got to book early, as much as three months in advance, as it's one of the most popular onsen towns in the country.

Beppu Onsen, Oita

Beppu, down south, is made up of a cluster of eight onsen areas. One of the unique appeals of this place is the chance to try Beppu Beach Sand Bath on Shoningahama beach. Here you'll be covered, or rather buried alive – don't worry your head is out – in volcanically heated sand for a cozy and strangely relaxing experience.

Kinosaki Onsen, Toyooka

Kinosaki Onsen is a super relaxed, tattoo-friendly onsen town populated by relaxed onsen goers, dressed in colorful yukata (light kimono). With plenty of English-friendly maps and a chilled tattoo policy, it's a great choice for international guests.