A Guide to Niseko Ski Resort

Niseko is Japan's premier destination for winter sports. This once-quaint regional town in Hokkaido, Japan's northernmost region is a two-hour drive from Sapporo – the largest city in Hokkaido. In recent decades, it's a place that has become essentially a brand name synonymous with luxury, incredible natural views, world-class accommodation, clear, crisp, sunny winter skies, and the one natural feature that kicked it all off: Powder snow. Here's what you need to know.

The ski season in Niseko is long, almost five months long. It starts at the end of November and runs through until early May. Snow quality is pretty excellent throughout the season due to its position so far up north. However, the heaviest snowfall is typically between late December and mid-February; on average, the area receives about 14 meters of snowfall annually.

When planning a trip to Niseko, it's good to get prepared as early as possible, both with accommodation and restaurant bookings. The growth in popularity is in large part thanks to the international guests that flock to the area for spectacular backcountry skiing, manicured runs, a buzzy global ambiance, and plenty of off-slope, après-ski culture, which are all well worth the journey.

Many folks travel directly from their international destinations to Sapporo and journey from there, but visiting via Tokyo is a great way to see the country. If you're visiting via Tokyo, the best way to reach Niseko is via Sapporo.

Tokyo to Sapporo: If you're traveling by airplane, which is the quickest method, dozens of flights between cities run daily. Major airlines like JAL, ANA, Air Do, Skymark, Peach Aviation, Jetstar Japan, and Spring Airlines Japan run flights. Most flights depart from Tokyo's Haneda Airport, but a few also use Tokyo's Narita Airport, a little further away, so double-check your departure location beforehand.

If you're traveling to Sapporo by train, you can take the JR Tohoku/Hokkaido Shinkansen to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto, then switch to the Hokuto limited express to Sapporo. The Japan Rail Pass and JR East South Hokkaido Rail Pass cover this journey.

Sapporo to Niseko: In terms of flexibility, a rental car is probably the most convenient option for getting to Niseko via Sapporo, but driving in the snow is best reserved for experienced drivers. There are plenty of train and bus options, too.

Sapporo to Niseko by bus: Multiple bus companies, including Hokkaido Chuo Bus, Niseko Bus, and Hokkaido Access Network, run routes between hotels in Sapporo's city center and Niseko from December to March. Most buses stop at the three major ski resorts of Hirafu, Niseko Village, and Annupuri. The journey takes about three hours, and the bus fares vary depending on the company and pick-up location.

Sapporo to Niseko by train: This portion of the journey still requires a bus trip. From Sapporo, there are local and rapid train connections between Sapporo and Kutchan Stations, many of which also require a transfer at Otaru. This is a good choice for those with a JR Pass, as the trains are fully covered by the Japan Rail Pass and Hokkaido Rail Pass. Kutchan Station is the region's public transportation hub; from there, you can take one of the infrequent buses to Hirafu (approximately 15 minutes), Niseko Village (approximately 30 minutes), and Annupuri (approximately 45 minutes) (Some routes may only be available during certain seasons).

Getting around: Without a car, the best way to get around Niseko on wheels is via the inter-mountain shuttle bus. The bus connects the Hirafu, Niseko Village, and Annupuri resorts from the season open until March. It's free for those with an All Mountain Pass.

Mount Niseko-Annupuri is home to all of Niseko's ski resorts. There are three major resorts, Grand Hirafu, Niseko Village, and Annupuri, all of which sit on the southeastern half of the mountain. These three resorts all join together at the top of the mountain, where you can ski between them, and the shuttle buses connect them to the mountain base. If you want to look a little further, a few smaller resorts dot the perimeter of these resorts, but we'll just take a look at the big three here.

Grand Hirafu is the largest resort; it's home to over 10 lifts and 22 routes and a secondary base at Hanazono located on the east side of the mountain. It's really the heart of Niseko's culture, too. Hirafu Town is the resort's township filled with hotels, guest houses, holiday homes, and a diverse range of restaurants and bars, making for a very buzzy nightlife. Due to the region's international appeal, many businesses and stores are very English-friendly, and many are foreign-owned due to the region's international appeal.

Regarding route levels, it’s a pretty even split for skiers of all levels here. Approximately 27% of the runs would be considered advanced, with 28% for intermediates and 45% suitable for beginners.

Niseko Village Ski Resort (formerly known as Higashiyama) is the second-largest resort in the area. The runs are about an evenly split between beginner, intermediate, and advanced levels, and there are eight lifts (chairlifts and gondolas) to get you around. This resort offers excellent off-piste powder skiing and some of the area's longest skiing and snowboarding trails. Meandering and scenic, a visit to this resort is an excellent way to get a lay of the land as scenic courses lead through beautiful natural forests. It's also great for families.

Annupuri Resort sits a little further west than the other two. It's ideal for those who want to avoid the crowds as its trails aren't quite as steep or wide, making it quieter. You'll find accommodations and some dining and nightlife hangouts at the resort's base. The area has six lifts (chairlifts and gondolas) and courses, some of which are quite small, great for beginners. The ratio of course levels is roughly 30% beginner, 40% intermediate and 40% advanced.

As a bonus, Moiwa is a more compact fourth ski resort just west of Annupuri. It's not included in the Niseko All Mountain Pass, and it isn't possible to reach via skiing from the other resorts. It's humbler and a lot quieter than the other options, and for that reason, it has its charm.

What makes Niseko such a hot destination beyond skiing is the huge range of dining establishments and bars that epitomize the best of the apres life.

There are high-end dining establishments like Tempura Araki, an authentic Omakase dining experience. Here, the chef curates the menu daily, changing every night based on what market-fresh local ingredients are available. If you want to taste what makes Niseko so special, Molière Montagne is a great example. This restaurant serves hybrid French cuisine utilizing Hokkaido's local ingredients.

A place like Bang Bang is a top choice for something a little more casual. This is a yakitori (meat, seafood, or vegetables on skewers) restaurant where you can watch the chefs grill over a special charcoal called binchotan. They also have recommended seasonal menus, such as wagyu beef steak and   Kakiemon oysters. It can be popular, though, so if you can't nab a spot, Bang 2, a more casual incarnation (with the same menu), is right next door (only open during the winter season).

Niseko is a destination that could be considered home to Japan's most vibrant ski nightlife. Hunting late-night haunts? There are plenty, so feel free to choose your own adventure, but don't overlook Toshiro's, a slick and cozy cocktail bar run by the bar's namesake proprietor and mixologist. The bar recently moved to a new location, Sansui Niseko (re-opening in December 2023), but the wild selections of incredible drinks, like the Penicillin, a mix of whiskey, ginger, and citrus, with a smoky finish will stay the same.

Niseko Konbu Onsen Tsuruga Besso Moku no Sho is a hotel that blends effortless Japanese style with modern Western comforts in luxurious style. The hotel has a range of rooms to fit traveling groups of all sizes, as well as on-site dining and onsen (hot spring) baths that are great for unwinding after a long day on the slopes. It's a little fancier than some other places but still very homely and comfortable.

For those planning to base themselves around Annupuri, Niseko Northern Resort Annupuri is a natural choice. This tidy, stylish, and affordable hotel offers cozy twin and double rooms as well as more deluxe options. To take the guesswork out of where to dine, some plans come with a buffet style meal. Central, affordable, convenient, and comfortable, it ticks all the boxes.

Higashiyama Niseko Village Ritz-Carlton Reserve is peak Niseko luxury at its very best. As one of the region's newest establishments, it's already made a mark on the scene. The resort boasts 50 stylish rooms and suites, with breathtaking views of the Yotei and Niseko Annupuri mountains. The hotel has fine dining at the international restaurant Yukibana and world-class Omakase-style sushi dining at Sushi Nagi, so there's not really any reason to leave the hotel were it not for the incredible snow just outside your doorstep.